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| Patek Philippe Watches
New Large Calatrava 5196 For aficionados of the fine art of horology, the Calatrava is the quintessential round wristwatch. Patek Philippe has added the Calatrava Ref. 5196 "Grande Classique" to this legendary family. The impressive 37-millimeter diameter case sports a smooth, polished bezel.
In 1932, Patek Philippe introduced a sleek and distinctive wristwatch with Ref. 96. It instantly became a benchmark of 20th-century watch design. It was named after a Spanish order of knighthood whose fleurs-de-lys emblem was adopted as the symbol of Patek Philippe. Over the past seven decades, the Calatrava has undergone many permutations but always preserved its sense of understated nobility. Now, in this latest interpretation, the Ref. 5196 pays tribute to the original 1932 Calatrava. The original Calatrava case was inspired by the Bauhaus philosophy that form should follow function. In the case of the wristwatch, the succession of circular motions - starting with the turning of the winding crown, the movements of the balance and wheel trains, and the circular path of the hour and minute hands - clearly dictated a round form. Since the purpose of a watch is to tell time, the Bauhaus school discouraged embellishments and other details that might distract from the hands. In fact, the art of omission is what characterized this functional approach - a style so masterfully emulated in the 1932 Calatrava that it still influences the design of timepieces today. With the Calatrava Grande Classique Ref. 5196, Patek Philippe continues to honour the maxims of Bauhaus design. Nothing diverts attention from the steady progression of the hands. Because in everyday life the emphasis is on hours and minutes, the seconds hand turns in a discreetly reduced subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock. This exemplar of functionality is accommodated in an enlarged case with a diameter of 37 millimetres, resulting in a sleek yet substantial timepiece that feels terrific on the wrist. The wide bezel is mirror-polished and the case merges seamlessly with the elegantly curved strap lugs. A solid snap back vacuum-seals the case for water resistance to 25 meters. The Calatrava Ref. 5196 is available in three gold models and one in platinum. The models, in 18K yellow, rose, or white gold, are fitted with a slightly domed and satin-finished dial accented by dauphine hands in gold to match the case. The hours are identified with applied gold markers and the minutes with a string of tiny golden pearls. The Calatrava Ref. 5196 in platinum presents a slightly different style. It has a silvery dial with applied Breguet numerals in white gold. Its design is reminiscent of the Calatrava 570 from the 1940s, a watch that now occupies a prominent place in the permanent collection of the Patek Philippe Museum. The centre of the dial, framed by a chrome band, is diamond polished. The recessed subsidiary dial is at 6 o'clock, adorned with black Breguet numerals and a feuille hand. The white gold hour and minute hands are also feuille. Another distinction between this platinum timepiece and its white gold sibling is the discreet diamond set between the lugs at 6 o'clock. All models come with a hand-stitched alligator strap - brown for the yellow and rose gold cases and black for the white gold and platinum models. The buckles are made of the same precious metals as the cases. The classic design of the Calatrava is underscored by a movement which itself has become a classic: the Patek Philippe manufacture calibre 215 PS (Petite Seconde = small seconds). This manually wound mechanical movement combines the ultimate in reliability with superb accuracy. It has kept its quality promise for nearly 30 years. Only 2.55 millimetres thick, it incorporates 130 meticulously finished individual parts and proudly bears the prestigious Geneva Seal. Further Reading
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